Terroir, cupping, appreciating complex aromas and flavors. the coffee aficionado's mind-set is not so different from the wine aficionado's. "Coffee hasn't reached the status of wine, but it's heading in that direction," says Yellin. There's a substantial difference between the two, however: control. "With wine, you get what's in the bottle," Yellin says. "There are a limited number of ways you can vary it. But with coffee you can start from the beginning. you buy a seed, you roast the seed, you roast it any number of ways - darker, lighter. then there's probably half a dozen major ways you can prepare it."